Nonapeptide Skin Whitener: Nonapeptide-1 is a small molecule skin lightening active peptide. Ideal for use in sunscreen, moisturizing products, skin firming products, and lightening products.
Nonapeptide-1 is a research peptide and can lighten skin. It works by inhibiting melanin synthesis by interfering with the action of tyrosinase in melanocytes. Nonapeptide-1 can reduce hyperpigmentation and lighten dark areas with sun damage and certain diseases. It works with melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) which increases during pregnancy due to certain medical conditions (e.g., diabetes, Addison’s disease) and excessive sun exposure. In studies, Nonapeptide-1 can completely inhibit melanin synthesis in fungi.
Research shows Nonapeptide-1 can inhibit 25-35% of tyrosinase activity in animal models and lower the melanin content of melanocytes by 27-43%.
Depigmentation Mechanisms
The depigmentation substances inhibit the enzymatic process of melanogenesis. The key enzyme is tyrosinase, responsible for the first step in melanin biosynthesis. By inhibiting oxidation enzymes, the depigmentation effect is enhanced. The enzymatic inhibition is reversible, so it only works if the depigmenting substances are put on the skin.
The whitening substances do not only work on the melanin spots. Removal occurs through the natural mechanisms of skin shedding and skin cell transformation.
The elimination of pigment spots is a slow process that takes weeks and months.
The depigmenting substances reach the melanosomes, which have very low permeability, via passive diffusion through the stratum corneum.
The negative stimulus that is triggered by UV radiation must be suppressed with light protection substances.
Due to the reversible inhibition of tyrosinase, the depigmenting substances must be used regularly and long-term.
It would be rational to apply the substances only to the spots to lighten them, but to date, there is no way to do this precisely due to the stability of melanin.
It is also challenging to remove dermal melanin, which macrophages eliminate. However, macrophage activity is also activated with treatment, but slowly a sun protection filter.
Chemical filters: Protection against UVB (290 – 320 nm), protection against UVA (320 – 400 nm)
Absorption of the harmful sun rays.
What is a Peptide?
To understand what a peptide is, we need to go back to amino acids and proteins. A protein is an arrangement of amino acids, like a string of pearls. A peptide is a smaller assembly, sometimes just 2 amino acids (between 2 and 10 it is an oligopeptide, between 10 and 100 it is a polypeptide). You could say it’s a mini protein. Peptides are usually obtained by extracting proteins, which are then hydrolyzed, i.e. “cut” into more or less small pieces. However, they can also be produced artificially in the laboratory.
What is the beneficial effect of peptides on the skin?
Peptides are present throughout the body and have a wide range of biological activities. They function primarily as cellular messengers that pass on signals and information to the cells. For example, they are involved in wound healing or the transmission of nerve messages.
Therefore, it is quite normal to find in cosmetics a multitude of peptides, each of which is of interest to the skin: -they soothe, stimulate the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid
-increase cell renewal
-regulate the synthesis of melanin (the skin pigment )
-help the skin to repair itself or stay hydrated
-fight oxidative stress, etc.
In synergy with the other active ingredients in a formula, peptides are therefore a great asset for the skin.